The menswear season has just wrapped up in the capitals of the fashion world. While winter seems like it’s already over (summer clothes will be making their way soon on window aisles) the shows just prolonged it a bit by showing what we could expect six months from now. Or rather one can dream about what one could wear in future if one had bank balances of a third-world economy!
For me casual sportiness and off-beat colour seemed to be the main takeaways. Bottega Venetta does casual luxury like no body else – no matter how eccentric the treatments, the clothes always look like they cost a million bucks. This season, the sweaters seemed to be dyed half-ways into vats of colours to create intriguing effects (as if the dyer had made a mistake). The colours were dull greens and greys. The silhouette had a relaxed feel thanks to ribbed hems on trousers and jackets – something that looked right on models only because they were models and the materials must be so fantastic.
At Dries Van Noten, colouring and mixing was in overdrive. Imagine Lord Byron as a member of a punk gang and you almost made it to the the ‘look’ of the show. The trousers with bondage straps or tie-dye effects or patchwork of fabrics looked modern and different. Semi-cropped jackets over frilly collared shirts looked cool. And fur scarves in great colours looked so very right only because.....yeah, they were worn by models and the furs were so luxe!
Elsewhere odd combinations caught the eye. Polka dots and thin stripes of bright colour decorated formal menswear at Dior. Bright sweaters and shoes in clashing colours enlivened suits at Lanvin. Feral textures were also in vogue – at Valentino rich skins were worn casually, at Fendi furs were wild but sophisticated and hairy textures gave a darker edge at Kenzo. Guess next winter we need to be wrapped up in eccentric choices!