The menswear season has just wrapped up in the capitals of
the fashion world. While winter seems like it’s already over (summer clothes
will be making their way soon on window aisles) the shows just prolonged it a
bit by showing what we could expect six months from now. Or rather one can
dream about what one could wear in future if one had bank balances of a
third-world economy!
For me casual sportiness and off-beat colour seemed to be
the main takeaways. Bottega Venetta does casual luxury like no body else – no
matter how eccentric the treatments, the clothes always look like they cost a
million bucks. This season, the sweaters seemed to be dyed half-ways into vats
of colours to create intriguing effects (as if the dyer had made a mistake).
The colours were dull greens and greys. The silhouette had a relaxed feel
thanks to ribbed hems on trousers and jackets – something that looked right on
models only because they were models and the materials must be so fantastic.
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| How many ways can you say 'drab green'? Bottega Venetta Man f/w 2014 |
At Dries Van Noten, colouring and mixing was in overdrive.
Imagine Lord Byron as a member of a punk gang and you almost made it to the the
‘look’ of the show. The trousers with bondage straps or tie-dye effects or
patchwork of fabrics looked modern and different. Semi-cropped jackets over
frilly collared shirts looked cool. And fur scarves in great colours looked so
very right only because.....yeah, they were worn by models and the furs were so
luxe!
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| Punk or poets? Anarchic elegance at Dries Van Noten Man f/w 2014 |
Elsewhere odd combinations caught the eye. Polka dots and
thin stripes of bright colour decorated formal menswear at Dior. Bright
sweaters and shoes in clashing colours enlivened suits at Lanvin. Feral
textures were also in vogue – at Valentino rich skins were worn casually, at
Fendi furs were wild but sophisticated and hairy textures gave a darker edge at
Kenzo. Guess next winter we need to be wrapped up in eccentric choices!
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